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Glass Slumping Molds Explained: Types, Prep, and Firing

Once you've fused a flat piece of glass, slumping is how you give it shape, into a bowl, plate, or dish. The mold does the shaping, and choosing and preparing it correctly is the difference between a clean curve and a stuck, marked, or torn piece.

Types of slumping molds

Mold type Best for
Ceramic / bisque molds Most common; bowls, plates, dishes
Stainless steel molds Durable, reusable, sharp forms
Drop-out / ring molds Deep vessels where glass drops through
Drape molds Glass draped over the outside (see draping)

Preparing the mold is everything

Glass will stick to a bare mold, ruining both. Every mold needs a release layer:

  • Kiln wash (several coats, cross-hatched)
  • Boron nitride spray for fine detail
  • Shelf/fiber papers for one-off use
  • Vent holes clear so air can escape

Re-coat kiln wash whenever it looks worn or flaky. A patchy release layer transfers texture to the back of your glass or causes sticking.

Slump low and slow

Slumping happens at a much lower temperature than fusing, typically in the 1150–1250°F range. You want just enough heat for the glass to soften and settle into the mold under gravity, no more. Overheat and you'll get thinning, marks from the mold surface, or glass pulling away from the rim. A gentle, watchful slump with a good soak gives the cleanest result.

Match mold size to your glass

Your fused blank should suit the mold, not overhang wildly or float in the center. Too large and it drapes past the edges; too small and it won't reach the form. Plan the blank size around the finished shape you want.

Expanding into slumped work?

The right molds, kiln wash, and a kiln with enough depth make slumping easy. I'll help you gear up. Spencer — (801) 839-5882.

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