Kiln Guide

The cooling curve is where a lot of glaze magic happens. Slowing the descent through the right window grows crystals that create matte, satin, and crystalline surfaces.

Underglaze draws; glaze coats. They do different jobs and go on in a specific order. Here's how to use each and avoid the crawling that comes from getting it wrong.

Electric kilns fire in oxidation by nature, which is why reduction glazes are so hard to reproduce in one. Here's how the two atmospheres differ and how to design for yours.

Cone 6 or cone 10 shapes your clay, glazes, energy cost, and kiln wear. Here's an honest comparison to help you pick the right lane for your studio.

Crazing and shivering are opposite symptoms of the same issue: glaze fit. One means your glaze expands too much, the other too little. Here's how to tell and fix each.

Crawling makes glaze bead up and pull away from the clay, leaving bare patches. Almost always it's contamination or a too-thick coat. Here's the fix.

Pinholes and blisters both wreck a glaze surface, but they're different problems with different fixes. Here's how to tell them apart and clear them up.

Crazing is the fine spiderweb of cracks in a fired glaze, and it comes down to one thing: the glaze and clay body shrinking at different rates. Here's what causes it, how to fix it, and how to stop it for good.